After I left London virtually two weeks in the past after the insurgent coalition captured Aleppo – a surprising victory dwarfed by what adopted – I believed I’d be reporting a taking pictures conflict.
The group often called Hayat Tahrir al-Sham, or HTS, was sweeping all earlier than it, however I assumed that the regime would battle, because it didn’t cease doing because it was dropping floor within the years earlier than the Russians intervened in 2015 to bomb Syrian cities and villages to rubble.
Virtually a decade later, it was clear that Bashar al-Assad’s Russian, Iranian and Lebanese allies had different wars to consider.
However whereas the regime struggled with unwilling conscripts, it might at all times discover Syrians who have been ready to battle and die for it, even on the peak of the conflict after 2011, when rebels managed a lot of Damascus exterior the town centre and the highway to Beirut.
I visited these males on the entrance line many instances.
Most of the best models have been led by officers from Assad’s personal Alawite neighborhood.
In Aleppo in round 2015 an Alawite common handed out glasses of completely distilled arak, poured from bottles that when held Jack Daniels.
Proudly, he mentioned the arak, an aniseed primarily based spirit well-liked throughout the Center East, got here from the Assad household’s residence city within the hills behind the port of Latakia. Outdoors, his unit was pounding the rebel-held east facet of the town.
Not all have been Alawites. In Jobar, a district on the sting of central Damascus, a Christian officer loyal to Assad from the Syrian Arab Military took me into the tunnels that they had dug beneath the ruins to assault rebels.
He instructed how the rebels additionally had tunnels and the way generally they’d break into one another’s, killing within the darkness.
The younger man had a crucifix tattooed on his wrist and one other hanging round his neck, and he talked about how he needed to battle to guard his neighborhood in opposition to jihadi extremists on the opposite facet.
My instincts in regards to the combating spirit of Assad’s depleted band of loyalists couldn’t have been extra incorrect.
On Saturday 7 December I went to sleep after listening to the information that Homs had fallen.
By the point I wakened Bashar al-Assad was on his solution to Russia and insurgent fighters have been beginning to rejoice on the streets of Damascus.
They shot extra bullets into the air in celebration than they fired in anger at Assad’s loyalists, who have been operating for his or her lives.
I noticed a whole bunch of vehicles queuing to depart on the border with Lebanon, filled with disgruntled, defeated males and frightened households.
Rank and file troopers dumped their uniforms and weapons with out firing a shot and went residence.
The Assad regime crumpled, hollowed out by corruption, cruelty and brutal disdain for the lives of Syrians. Even Assad’s personal Alawite neighborhood didn’t battle for him.
That was why on Thursday night this week, as an alternative of sheltering from shells and bullets on some freezing avenue in Homs or Hama, as I might anticipated, I walked by way of the marble halls of the presidential palace in Damascus with Ahmed al-Sharaa, Syria’s de facto chief.
He has given up his uniform, and swapped his wartime pseudonym, Abu Mohammed al-Jolani, for his actual identify.
Many Syrians doubt his declare that he has additionally swapped his outdated jihadist beliefs for a extra tolerant type of Syrian non secular nationalism.
It’s true that he broke with al Qaeda in 2016, after a protracted profession as a jihadist fighter in Iraq and Syria. However as I discovered in Assad’s palace, Ahmed al-Sharaa, a tall, quietly spoken man in his early forties, is reluctant to get too particular in regards to the Syria he desires.
He comes throughout as very smart and politically astute. Like many astute politicians, he typically doesn’t give a straight reply to a straight query.
He denied he needed Syria to turn out to be a Center Japanese Afghanistan.
The Taliban, he mentioned, dominated “a tribal society. Syria is solely completely different.” Syria’s new rulers would respect its tradition and historical past.
After I requested whether or not ladies would have the freedoms they’ve come to count on right here, he mentioned 60 per cent of scholars in universities in Idlib, his powerbase, have been feminine.
However he tried to not reply a query about mandating hijab – Islamic gown – for ladies.
Damascus has been buzzing with rumours of bearded HTS males ordering ladies to cowl their hair.
I identified that there had been a giant row on social media after a girl requested for a selfie with him after which pulled up her hood when she took the picture.
Conservatives criticised al-Sharaa for consenting to pose with a girl who was not a part of his household. Liberals noticed her hood as a darkish omen of Syria’s future.
If he was exasperated by the query he didn’t present it.
“I didn’t power her. But it surely’s my private freedom. I need photographs taken for me the way in which that fits me. I didn’t power her. That is not the identical as having a legislation about it that applies countrywide. However there’s a tradition on this nation that the legislation must recognise.”
Al Sharaa was referring to the truth that many Syrians, not simply within the majority Sunni Muslim neighborhood, are pious.
Many ladies put on hijab. The purpose, secular Syrians would say, is to have the ability to select.
In half a century of Assad rule, Syrians developed survival methods which frequently included hiding their very own emotions and doing what was anticipated of them.
Shocked, nervous, secular Syrians confirmed me movies on their telephones of mass prayers exterior universities when the scholars went again final Sunday.
Was it, they requested, actual piety or younger folks doing as they have been instructed as a result of that’s the way it’s been right here for his or her entire lives?
It can all, al-Sharaa mentioned, be a matter for a brand new structure to be determined by a panel of authorized specialists.
Al-Sharaa’s critics will level out that as issues stand, he chooses who will get on to the committee that he says will likely be writing new legal guidelines in addition to a brand new structure.
Ahmed al-Sharaa needed to speak most in regards to the outdated regime’s oppression of the folks.
“The Syrian issues are far too greater than the problems you’re asking about. Half the inhabitants was kicked out of Syria or forcibly displaced from their homes.
“They have been focused with barrel bombs and unguided dumb bombs and over 250 chemical assaults. Many Syrians drowned at sea attempting to flee to Europe.”
He recognised that Syria has no probability of beginning to stabilise and rebuild if sanctions are usually not lifted.
Sanctions have been aimed initially on the Assad regime. To maintain them, he mentioned, meant treating the sufferer the identical because the oppressor.
He denied the group he leads is a terror organisation, which in the meanwhile is the place of the UN and many of the world’s strongest nations.
Visits by overseas diplomats counsel altering each the sanctions and terrorist listings could possibly be possible.
He was dismissive after I identified I knew diplomats had instructed him that altering that standing would rely upon proof he was conserving his promise to respect minority rights and run an inclusive political course of.
“What issues to me is that the Syrian folks consider me. We promised the Syrian folks to liberate them from this legal regime and we did that. That is what issues to me first and final.
“I do not very a lot care about what will likely be mentioned about us overseas. I am not obliged to show to the world that we work critically to attain the pursuits of our folks in Syria.”
Over the last two weeks, I’ve heard many Syrians say that they wish to be left alone to attempt to rebuild their nation.
That feels like a pipe dream.
The conflict destroyed a lot of the nation, but it surely additionally drained away Syria’s sovereignty.
Bashar al-Assad turned a consumer of Iran and Russia and fled the nation after they stopped supporting him.
The US is within the north-east, to hunt remnants of Islamic State and to guard its Kurdish allies.
Turkey controls a lot of the north-west and has its personal Arab-led militia.
There are indicators that the Turks, who’ve a detailed relationship with HTS, are making ready a renewed assault on Syrian Kurds who’ve a detailed relationship with Kurdish separatists inside Turkey.
Israel, at the moment as aggressive because it has been for a few years, has most overtly exploited the vacuum of energy it noticed in Syria.
It continues to bomb the stays of the state’s army infrastructure and taking extra Syrian land so as to add to the Golan Heights which it has occupied since 1967.
The Israelis, as ever, justify their actions as self-defence.
The UN particular envoy to Syria Geir Pedersen instructed me that Israel’s actions have been “irresponsible.” Israel, he mentioned mustn’t act in a fashion that would “destabilise this very, very fragile transitional course of.”
Ahmed al-Sharaa is aware of he can not stand as much as Israel’s US-backed energy.
“Syria is exhausted from the conflict no matter whether or not Israel is robust or not. Syria must get stronger and extra developed. We have no plans of aggression in opposition to Israel. Syria is not going to be a risk to Israel or anybody.”
Ahmed al-Sharaa’s agenda is overflowing.
Syria is a damaged nation that he says he desires to restore and revive, filled with challenges that may make his activity unattainable.
HTS shouldn’t be the one armed group in Syria and there are some that wish to destroy his fledgling administration. Enemies of HTS within the Islamic State community may strive destabilising assaults.
The will Syrians have for vengeance in opposition to Assad’s killers – and the ex-president himself – might explode into harmful public rage if HTS can not present that it’s bringing to justice the lads who stored their boots on Syrian throats for thus lengthy.
Ahmed al-Sharaa, accurately, sees Syria as a fulcrum on the coronary heart of the Center East.
“Syria is a crucial nation with a strategic location, very influential on the planet, look how America is current in it on the one hand, Russia however and regional nations resembling Turkey, Iran and Israel as effectively.”
He says that’s the reason the surface world ought to assist Syria recuperate.
It is usually why highly effective states won’t let that occur.